Since we can't really move towards our intended destination of St. Maarten due to weather, we've decided to - SIGH - throw in the towel and just cruise the British Virgin Islands while we wait for a weather window to move on. It's a rough life. They say if you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Well, we say: if you can't leave 'em, ENJOY 'em.
Scott and I have been here three times before, twice on vacation aboard other boats, and once on our old boat, Rasmus. While we had a blast during those previous visits, we weren't as captivated as we have been this time around. I can't quite put my finger on why this is, but we've pretty much fallen head over heels in love with these islands. So much so, in fact, that we're talking about basing ourselves here semi-permanently in the future. Perhaps the Universe has forced us to linger so that we'd take pause and have a good look around instead of just blazing through in a drunken stupor. Either way, we're pleased as rum punch it worked out this way.
Truth be told, it's easy to go lukewarm on these islands as nothing more than a playground for charter boats. Which, don't get me wrong, they are. I'll bet an arial view of this place in high season looks not unlike like the carnival game "duck pond" with oodles of Beneteaus bobbing around. "Too many credit card captains"..."too expensive"..."too touristy"...."not authentic". These are all things we've heard from other cruisers and - not gonna lie - we thought those things too. As a vacation destination for the employed, this place fits the bill. But for experienced and salty live-aboard cruisers on a budget, there was more...or so we thought. But after ten days of hanging around these parts, we've fallen off our high horse.
So what makes these islands so great? Well, for one thing - they are spectacularly gorgeous. I'm almost exhausting myself with how often I've said "Wow!! It is soooooo beautiful here"! The dramatic landscape is nothing short of eye-candy; lush hillsides encompassing every shade of green jut out of the cerulean water at sixty degree angles, vibrant flowers dangle heavily in lavish bunches off tree branches, and lanky palms bow lazily over the sandy beaches as waves lap rhythmically on shore. Looking off in any direction you see the dramatic silhouettes of more islands in the distance like giant boulders that have fallen haphazardly from outer space, and you might even see four or five ridge lines taper off in a dusky haze. It's super gaze-worthy, that's for sure. There's a reason there are a gazillion charter boats here: people keep coming back for more because this place is like crack for paradise lovers.
Then there's the sailing. "We can sail just for the fun of it here!" Scott exclaimed on our first day out. Most cruisers rarely sail just for the sake of sailing; it's usually to get to some place and more often than not conditions aren't ideal for canvas. Here, however, there are so many places to go and because of they way this archipelago is situated you are almost always in "protected" waters, meaning you can sail in almost any condition to some awesome anchorage with great snorkeling, a pretty beach, and a killer sunset. What's not to love? (Okay, the overpriced beach bar kinda blows).
Last time we were here on Rasmus, we were spending $30 a night for moorings which is why we left in such a hurry. Like lemmings, we took moorings because everyone else did. Turns out, you don't have too (unless you are a charter boat, in which case most decree that you MUST take a mooring). This time around, we've anchored just about everywhere and it's been a piece of cake. We enter an anchorage, get away from the mooring balls and drop the hook. Granted, it's not high season so perhaps it's less crowded than it would otherwise be, but we're super thrilled that we can spend that $30 on tropical slushy rum drinks during happy hour and not on a mooring ball. With 275 of chain and a better than average anchor, we're more than adequately set to anchor here. (So far 20 feet is the deepest we've anchored, for the record).
Anyway, we're happy. We're having fun. And every now and then we even forget the fact that the weather folks are - as one Facebook follower so eloquently put - "running out of scary words to describe this upcoming hurricane season". Sigh. As much as we'd like to, this little love affair must end - for now. We got to fly south for the summer!
2 comments:
Hi Brittany! We're contemplating heading toward the Virgin Islands next winter and also contemplating leaving the boat for a couple of hurricane seasons while we do our commuter cruising thing. Have you run across anywhere that one could leave the boat for six months and a. afford it and b. feel like it's relatively protected (we realize that leaving a boat in the hurricane zone in the summer is never a good bet). THX! We've talked about maybe heading to Puerto Rico for the leaving the boat part and then cruising the VI, SVI & BVI for a couple of winters. Any input would be appreciated! THX! Jan & David, commutercruiser.com
Hi Jan!! Do it!! It is amazing here and from the VI's you can sail to the USVI, the Spanish VI's, Puerto Rico...so many options!!
We have had friends leave there boats here during hurricane season with no problem - we actually just met a couple who have cruised these islands and keep their boat here year round for 15 years with no problem (hauled out during H season, of course). I have no idea what yards to suggest or what the cost might be, but I would start doing research. I believe the facilities are pretty good here and I think the yards are well equipped for storing boat's in hurricane seasons. I mean, they have literally thousands of charter boats that stay here...obviously there's always a risk. But there's a risk ANYWHERE actually.
If you DO come this way and we meet up - we're coming over for dinner on YOUR boat ;). (Still loving your cookbook!!)
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